Spot Check: Haleiwa

The wave at Ali'i Beach Park , known as Haleiwa , holds a special place in the surfing world. A former key spot in the Triple Crown of Surfing , Haleiwa is a unique point break, considered one of the best high-performance big-wave spots in the world. It can handle swells of up to 4 meters (12 feet), and unlike many spots that saturate in big conditions, Haleiwa often gets even better as the size increases.

Over the generations, many big names in Hawaiian surfing have cut their teeth or demonstrated their power there, notably  Eddie Aikau , Sunny Garcia , Kekoa Bacalso and Bettylou Johnson

Located in the small town of Haleiwa , this wave takes its name from this charming coastal village, considered the gateway to the North Shore , both geographically and symbolically. For many young local surfers, Haleiwa is the first real spot before progressing to more challenging waves like Sunset , Rocky Point , Pipeline or Waimea . Thanks to its gentler inside section, the wave is perfect for kids and groms in small to medium swells.

The name Haleiwa means "house of the frigate bird" (iwa) in Hawaiian. Once a sugar town in the 19th century, it is now a destination known for its relaxed atmosphere, art galleries, and local treats like shave ice and acai bowls .

Haleiwa is a right most of the time, but can also offer nice lefts in small swells. The main peak breaks about 270 meters from shore , over a V-shaped reef, before running aground in a shallow section nicknamed the Toilet Bowl . The spot works during the fall, winter, and spring , and the best conditions arrive with a west-northwest swell. If the swell is too west, it is blocked by Avalanches Reef; if it is too north, it is blocked by Pua'ena Point , another nearby spot. As a result, Haleiwa can sometimes feel smaller than other nearby spots, but when everything is jammed, Haleiwa often becomes the best choice .

Like many North Shore spots, Haleiwa faces northwest, which means the trade winds often blow offshore . When the wind shifts east, it can create a slight sideways chop, while the Kona (southwesterly) winds bring messier conditions. The ideal setup: light southeast winds.

Another well-known aspect of Haleiwa is the current , which gets stronger as the waves get bigger. During big swells, the spot becomes a veritable conveyor belt, pulling surfers towards the pier and the harbor channel. The culprit: the neighboring spot Avalanche , which sucks up large quantities of water before releasing them towards Haleiwa 's inner reef, forcing this water to escape through the channel. As a result, even with hard paddling, you can sometimes get sucked into the impact zone . It's best to know your limits. When in doubt, don't paddle.

Like everywhere on the North Shore , the crowds at Haleiwa vary depending on the size of the swell. During small swells at the beginning or end of the season, the atmosphere is relaxed, with locals, families, and a group of groms surfing the inside. But between November and February , when the swells are solid, the line-up becomes more intense , with pros coming to train for competitions. As always: respect the locals, consider each other, and good spirit.

In big swells, surfers often opt for boards with a bit more length and paddle. For swells of 60 cm to 1.20 m (2 to 4 feet) , Glenn Pang recommends the Flux Model , with its single to double concave and a slight vee in the tail that allows for good glide and clean turns even in small waves. When the surfing steps up a notch, he recommends the CSU Model , a step-up version of the Flux with a more moderate rocker, a smooth outline and a single to double concave bottom, also to maintain speed in soft sections and good control in critical sections. For big swells , Glenn recommends the W4 Model : a more pronounced rocker for steep drops, an accentuated vee in the tail, designed to handle power and speed while maintaining maneuverability in the hollows.